It has taken me a long time to start this post. This is partially because I’ve busy enjoying traveling, and also because I loved Vietnam so darn much I didn’t even know where to start. From the functionally chaotic streets of Hanoi, to the relaxing countryside in Central Vietnam, to Ho Chi Minh where I ate some of the best pizza in my entire life (yes, seriously)… I fell in love! We spent three weeks experiencing the country, and yet… I know I’ll be back for more. I’m craving a bowl of pho just thinking about this post. Okay, let’s get started.
Hanoi (The Chaotic City in the North!)
Imagine people sitting on tiny plastic stools drinking coffee, thousands of parked motorbikes, women selling tropical fruit from baskets they carry on their shoulders, bicycles piled high with flowers, random banana donuts being fried up, large steamy bowls of pho being served on some steps… This is what you’ll see on a typical street in Hanoi. And all of that is just on the sidewalk! The old quarter of Hanoi is, totally chaotic. The sidewalk is impossible to walk on, and there are so many honking motorbikes that to this day, I can still hear them ringing in my head.
You might wonder how easy it was to get around with all that commotion. Throw in the fact that there are no traffic lights and crazy amounts of motorbikes, crossing the street sounds like an impossible task. After many scary attempts on our own, we learned by observing locals that you just wait for a slight lull in the traffic, make eye contact with the closest driver coming toward you, and then… walk. The traffic sort of works its way around you. One of our favorite afternoon activities involved watching the traffic at a busy intersection. We found a favorite coffee shop with tiny plastic seats where we could sit back and watch the chaos ensue. Good, cheap, entertainment.
Must Eat in Hanoi
I knew very little about Vietnamese food before arriving. After spending three weeks eating everything I could find, I’m convinced it is one of the best cuisines in the world. I have many favorite dishes, but here are a few you should definitely try while in Hanoi.
Bún Bò Nam Bộ
This restaurant serves one dish (its namesake), and they serve it all day long to an endless stream of customers. It’s a beef rice noodle salad with fresh herbs, crunchy shallots, and a light sauce. I try not to eat at the same places while I travel so that I can try new things, but we ate here about 8 times on our one week trip, and some days we ate 2 bowls for lunch.
Banh Xeo
A thin and crispy pancake cooked with seafood. To eat it, you’re presented with an enormous basket of fresh herbs, and rice paper. Top the rice paper sheet with a piece of pancake and as many fresh leaves as possible, roll it up, dip, and enjoy. The balance of flavors is perfection.
Banana flower salad
Sweet, savory, crunchy, fresh. There’s so much happening! I made it in a cooking class and can confirm that yes, it’s actually made with banana flower shavings. It’s usually eaten with mini rice crackers, and meat can be added to make it more of a meal.
Bun Cha
Grilled smoked pork, a mountain of fresh herbs, rice noodles, and tasty broth all get tossed together. It’s sometimes served with pork spring rolls too. It doesn’t look like much, but the combination of flavors is not something that’s easy to forget.
Beef Pho (Pho Bo)
After leaving Vietnam, the first thing I craved was a bowl of pho. The beef bone broth was so simple, yet so good, and I still dream about the thin strips of brisket on top of my bowl of pho. (My favorite type has both raw and cooked slices of meat.)
Pizza 4P’s
(More on this in the Ho Chi Minh section below.)
Coffee in Hanoi
You can’t leave town without trying the ubiquitous egg coffee. This Hanoi discovery is a sweet and frothy combo of whipped egg yolk with condensed milk, poured on strong coffee. It’s available everywhere, but my favorite coffee shops are:
Cafe Pho Co – It’s a bit tricky to find, but you’ll know you’re in the right place if you see a big orange cat laying near the entrance. They have multiple terraces, but keep walking to the top level for the best view.
Cong Caphe – There are a few locations around town, but my favorite is next to Hanoi Avatar Hotel. The tiny sidewalk seats were perfectly set up for watching traffic chaos in the intersection. Their coconut coffee (like a coconut shake with espresso thrown on top) is crazy delicious, but the green rice drink is even better. (It doesn’t have coffee, but is the perfect frozen afternoon dessert to help you escape the heat. Don’t miss it.)
Working Out In Hanoi
The lake in the old quarter is very popular for exercising in the early morning and late evening. (There are even all sorts of people out dancing!) I ran a few laps in the morning, and was pleasantly surprised to be joined by a lot of locals. We also joined Crossfit Tay Ho for a week. It’s a bit outside the old quarter, but it’s a short and cheap Grab ride!
Where To Stay In Hanoi
Hanoi Avatar Hotel – Perfect location for exploring the old quarter, breakfast featuring healthy options which changed daily, and it’s located right next to Bún Bò Nam Bộ (your soon-to-be favorite lunch spot).
Potential Excursions from Hanoi
We did a two day Lan Ha Bay tour (booked through our hotel) which included amazing views, a nice boat, and surprisingly good food. Another popular day trip is to the mountains. We didn’t have time for it, but I’ve heard nothing but good things from other travelers.
Phong Nha (Rural Central Vietnam)
I have mixed feelings about sharing this. To get a taste of rural Vietnam, we spent a few nights at the Phong Nha Farmstay. It is not roughing it by any means. The rooms are beautiful and it’s more like luxury in the countryside. The views were stunning, I loved running through the rice fields, and there were all sorts of fun hiking/caving excursions to participate in. (Highly recommended.) The major downside of our beautiful farmstay was the food. It was bland, overpriced, and had really small portions. Being in the rural countryside, we didn’t have any other options, so by the end I couldn’t wait to leave. Next time I’d stay in the town of Phong Nha, where more restaurants are available, and all excursions are still possible.
Hoi An, Vietnam
The food capital of Vietnam, and a great place to take a cooking class! An amazing colorful city, lanterns everywhere (even lanterns floating on the river at night), incense burning on all corners, alleys that lead to garden cafes. This is a wonderful place to spend a few days.
I absolutely loved our time in Hoi An. I’ll let the pictures entice you…
Do not leave Hoi An without taking a cooking class! This blog post describes the class that I took, which included a visit to the market, hunting for crabs, and cooking up a feast!
Phin Espresso & Drip became my favorite coffee shop. It’s located at the end of a tiny alley that opens into a cute garden. Plus, they have delicious coffee and avocado toast. I mean, do you need anything else?
Faifo coffee is another favorite coffee shop, with a great rooftop view. Be sure to try the Vietnamese iced coffee to see their unique brewing process.
Working Out in Hoi An
If you need some fitness in your life, be sure to check out Superfit. They’ve got everything you need for a great workout, and even a good juice bar so you can have a cold drink for the walk home! Another option is to run along the river.
Where to stay in Hoi An
Flamingo Villa is still one of my favorite places we’ve stayed on our trip. The girl who runs it is super sweet, each morning started with an amazing home cooked breakfast (and strong coffee!), and it was the perfect location.
Day Trips from Hoi An
We caught the public bus to Marble Mountain for a day trip. It’s a weird mountain with all sorts of pathways, caves, and music. You really need to go for yourself and explore this interesting place.
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
My favorite part of Ho Chi Minh City was visiting the bird park. This interesting sight involves a bunch of men, and their pet birds, that come to the same park each morning to socialize (both the men, and the birds). The bird cages are all lined up, and everyone gets a cup of coffee to just hang out. The whole experience was so bizarre, and so fun.
For an interesting bit of history, be sure to visit the Cu Chi Tunnels.
What to eat in Ho Chi Minh City
We ate lunch most days at Ben Thanh Market. I also highly recommend Poke Saigon if you’re a fan of poke bowls. They had some interesting toppings (miso butter corn, pomegranate seeds, marinated mushrooms, quail eggs) that somehow all worked well together.
For dinner, you must go to Pizza 4 P’s! It is some of the best pizza I’ve ever had in my LIFE. They even make their own cheese. I can personally vouch for the fact that every location they have in Vietnam has the same quality. Please don’t ask how I know this. You must order the prosciutto and burrata pizza. I also highly recommend the salmon miso pizza (sounds terrifying, but you have to try it), and the camembert and mushroom one. They also have impressive appetizers and desserts.
I hope you will love Vietnam as much as I did! To complete this post, I’ll leave you with these two gems:
If you liked this post, be sure to check out my posts about Thailand, Hong Kong, and Japan!
Rose
Lindsey, you are amazing! I loved reading about your travels in Vietnam and all the pictures that go with it too. It was like a work of art. Priceless! So moving! My fav pic is the one in the tunnel and the ground is covered with leaves. Lol. I’m so lucky to have found your blog and Instagram. You are a national treasure.
Lindsey
Rose, it means so much to hear that. Thank you for your comment and kind words. I’m so glad you’re enjoying my blog!